On runners through the fairytale landscape
03.10.2018
I had phoned Peter Hammerer to book a sleigh ride, fulfilling a long-cherished dream of mine: Winter, sun, horses, sleighs - a prince would only be a nuisance here... During our phone call, I wanted to show off my “knowledge” of the Noriker to the “Rosserer”, as they say in Upper Bavaria, to impress him a little. Peter understood and said: “Come to the stables just before two, then I can show you the horses if you're interested.” An exception, by the way, because I wanted to write about it, otherwise nobody has access to the stables. If you sign up for a sleigh ride, you arrive at the farm at the agreed time, the sleigh is already prepared, the horses are harnessed and Peter is not far away, so you can set off straight away.
Filming location for “Cinderella”?

So I arrive at the stable a good fifteen minutes beforehand and imagine I'm filming a remake of “Three Nuts for Cinderella” or a similar winter fairy tale, because there's a tall man standing there with a thick fur hat, beard, curly hair, thick fur jacket and heavy boots. I'm thinking of the nice coachman who brings Hazelnuts for Cinderella - you know, the great fairytale movie from the 1970s. And Peter Hammerer looks exactly like this coachman, only taller.
stable tour
Before I can have a cuddle with the two Noriker horses Lola and Ricardo, I am led into the stable and introduced to some mountain coldbloods: There are Satan and Hoffeldhof, two proud stallions, gelding Pezi and in the next room the mares Lolita and Fiona. We don't get any further, it's almost 2 p.m. and Peter wants to start on time. Pezi stamps his hoof indignantly in his box, he asks for more hay, Peter gives him a little extra ration, then we go out again.
I take a seat on the coachman's seat, after all I want to talk to Peter about horses. Peter has about 25 Noriker horses, he can't say for sure, because yesterday alone he helped one of his mares “foal”. Peter is not only a coachman but also a midwife and farrier in one person. He also has 4 “Tiroler Grauvieh cows” in his stable - an old, robust breed of cattle.
“We used to have Galloways, I didn't like them.” When his father retired, he sold the shaggy cattle and got himself 4 “Tyroleans”. He mainly manages the stable work together with his wife, his father also helps out from time to time. His 3 children are also involved, but he doesn't push them, he wants them to do their own thing. When asked whether one of the kids will take over the farm, he is almost a little evasive. His son is already interested, and his daughter Joelle is also “cattle crazy” - we'll see. He himself is in his 31st carriage season this year, which means that he has been sitting on the “buck” since he was 16. I ask him if there is anything else he would like to experience. The answer comes quickly: “Heliskiing!” Our cue, we have arrived at the topic of skiing and, as the devil would have it, we have a perfect view of the Kanzelwand, Fellhorn and, further out of the valley, the Nebelhorn ...
Gutters, Noriker and Peter's winter happiness

“Do you see the race, I've already driven that way, do you see it? Just wait a minute.” Peter only has to move the reins marginally, then the two of them stop and stand there calmly. I look in the direction of the Hammerspitze and see very steep cuttings in the summit area - “You're going down there?” I ask in amazement and with great respect. Peter grins broadly. Peter shows me gullies that he has already skied or that he really wants to ski, while Lola and Ricardo automatically stop at the mere mention of the word “Renna” so that I can take my time to examine the couloir where their human herd leader has already plunged into the depths on skis. I get big eyes at every gully Peter shows me, Lola snorts, Ricardo doesn't care - the main thing is that the mare is there, and Peter grins from ear to ear - wintry gullies and Noriker - that's all the man needs for his happiness, I think to myself.
Coffee break with a view

Peter gives Lola and Ricardo a breather and us a coffee break. The mare will have a foal in just over three months, but she doesn't mind the work yet, says Peter. I seize the opportunity and quickly ask if he has always had Noriker horses: No, they used to have Haflingers, but they were much more difficult to drive, too nervous and too light for big carriages. The Noriker horses don't mind. The horses are given thick blankets and we have hot coffee at Café Küren. After the refreshment stop, we slowly make our way back towards the farm - the Walser landscape passes us by and we leave the picturesque “Wäldele” behind us. My gaze sweeps over the mountains, we are still relatively high - every now and then I catch a glimpse of Riezlern below and indulge in childhood memories - “Pippi Longstocking and the Little Uncle”...
Every fary tale has an end

Meanwhile, we turn back into the yard - hazelnuts didn't fall into Peter's or my lap on our ride and no monkeys played a trick on us either, but the stories of the Rosserer, including his carefree, boyish disposition and his mischievous grin, have a lot in common with the colorful, carefree children's series that I loved so much and still love to watch ... I thank Peter, nuzzle Ricardo's soft snout and whisper in Lola's ear that she's going to be a great horse mom. Then I'm back in the here and now - the next group arrives at the farm, they've brought provisions and are also full of anticipation. I'd love to know what movie titles went through their heads when they saw Peter and Ricardo...